Carolina Herrera
by Jamee Gregory
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| Fashion Week for spring 2010 began for me on this beautiful fall Monday with Carolina Herrera’s show. Arriving after a sunny walk down Fifth Avenue and across 42nd Street, it was shocking to be greeted by protesters covered in fake blood with placards protesting. Being a New Yorker, this did not deter me from entering the tents, nor did it stop hundreds of fashionistas from entering. It did provide drama.
This show was not about a zillion celebrities, but focused more on business VIP’s and editors, like Anna Wintour and Glenda Bailey, who decorated the front row, flanked by their teams. Socialites were relegated to the 2nd and 3rd rows. In these troubled times every seat has to count! Section B was buzzing! I stopped to chat with a suntanned Graydon Carter, his adorable wife, Anna, Princess Alexandra of Greece, Fernanda Niven, Emilia Fanjul, and both their daughters, Prince Dimitri of Yugoslavia, and Siddie Lansing, taking my seat beside CeCe Cord and Kenny Lane, whose commentary is always entertaining. In front Michael Roberts and Ron Frasch surveyed the scene. Fran Leibowitz chatted with Louise Grunwald until the show began at half past ten. Carolina took us on an exotic trip to Japan, inspired by textiles and basket weaving, choosing a muted spring palette of beige, white and rust with a few shots of raspberry pink. The models wore no jewelry, their hair was demure. Nothing detracted from the elaborate and fascinating effects of plaited, twisted and woven fabric that clung to the models slender bodies. Slinky long strapless gowns had web-like bands encircling one shoulder, creating cutouts over the bodice and giving depth to the delicate fabrics. |
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| L. to r.: Pamela Fiori ... Cindi Leive ... Candy Pratts Price. |
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| L. to r.: Ania Taubenfligel ... Alexis Bryan Morgan ... Jamee Gregory ... Suzy Menkes. |
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| L. to r.: Glenda Bailey ... Joe Zee ... Margaret Russell. |
| Some had layers of pleats and obi-like belts encircling the waist. Other gowns were fitted over the hips and thigh, bursting into fullness just above the knee. One or two nodded to the thirties with shimmering capelets and a wider shoulder appeared on some suits. Beautiful geometric beading in the brown, cream and rust family decorated white and cream dresses and jackets, appearing boldly on short shorts and boyish Bermudas with jackets. Perhaps brave Manhattan ladies will be sporting these hot pants at spring galas? A rust strapless jumpsuit and evening gowns with dramatic slits in front exposed plenty of leg. I loved a white jacket in a woven fabric with beading at the cuffs and down the front. This collection seemed to mark a different direction for Carolina, more ornate and embroidered, with its nod to the East. |
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| After the show her fans rushed backstage to offer hearty congratulations. Carolina, dressed in her favorite black and white, calmly greeted pals. Surrounded by her handsome husband Reinaldo and her beautiful daughter, Carolina, the event had a family feeling. Mary Alice Stephenson, Robert Janjigian, and Suzy Menkes all lined up to shake her hand, saluting her intricate creations. Heading back to Michael’s, which was packed, my friend Barbara Bancroft and I discussed the fascinating show over Cobb salads. We wished spring was just around the corner. Who needs winter? |
| Photographs by PatrickMcMullan.com |
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