GIMME SOME SKIN PT. ONE: BREAKING CARLA DAWN
by ANITA SARKO
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| THE AUTHOR IN VINTAGE BEHRLE. Imitating the infamous Angelina Jolie leg pose at a recent party. This Behrle creation is from her original TriBeCa shop. |
| When it comes to INVESTING in fashion, the trick is to find something that is not only well-made, but manages to be both on-trend and timeless. Go and buy all the flowered pants and mullet skirts you want, but if you actually spend a lot of money on something that SCREAMS the year and season of its popularity…well, you are obviously blessed with more expendable cash and closet space than most.
According to every breathless proclamation, the HOT item to own for fall is ANYTHING leather. Speaking of “hot”, the more fashion-forward celebs have been wearing “Summer Leather”…which is quite brave, considering the summer’s average temps. Then again, it’s quite easy to wear uncomfortable items (hello sky-high heels and/or frothy frocks in winter with NO stockings!) when you go quickly from (air conditioned/heated) residence to (air conditioned/heated) car to (air conditioned/heated) event, back to car…unlike the hoi-polloi who have to actually deal with whatever Mother Nature has tossed about and must rely on public transportation or walking!
That’s the spirit that made me a regular customer of Carla Dawn Behrle. I first discovered her in the late 90s, when I wandered into her small TriBeCa shop, which she had from 1997 until 2002. “I needed a place where I could both manufacture the line (which was represented by Patricia Field at the time)and have a laboratory so I could try new things.” Behrle says of that period. “I also wanted to have a closer relationship with my customers. I had been selling to stores all over the world, and was missing that direct connection.” Boy, did I connect with her! But, whatever I spent, however much I bought, it was a great fashion investment because I still have every item and I still wear them! Therefore, I can personally attest to their quality and their classic styling. I even have a mullet skirt from her from all those years ago and, believe me, it’s far more attractive than those horrid ones I’m seeing everywhere now! This woman is a master tailor. |
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| Above, left: AYESHA DRESS. Stretch leather in colors inspired by the Amazon. Reversible and may be worn with a deep v-neckline or a ballet neckline. $2,125 — $2,295 ... Above, right: LILY DRESS. Pleated bustle-back skirt. Finished with a concealed gunmetal Riri zipper at the back. Created for Nicole Scherzinger for "Men In Black 3".  Cocktail Length: $1,695 — $1,995.00. Mini Version: $1,495 — $1,795. |
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| MYRNA DRESS (front and back). Stretch leather sides and open back. 2-way gunmetal Riri zipper closure at center back. Lined in 100% Silk Charmeuse. $2,150 — $2,255. |
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| AMELIA COAT. Belted Cape coat with an extended mock neck and flyaway back. Stretch leather sleeves on a pure English wool double knit. Concealed snap closure and self belt. Lined in 3 ply 100% silk crepe with one interior pocket. $2,849 — $3,450. (Shown in Eggplant). |
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| CLAUDETTE PYTHON JACKET. Matte black python and Italian lambskin. Lined in royal purple 100% silk charmeuse. Gunmetal Riri zippers at sleeves and interior closure. Cannot be shipped to California. $5,350.00. COLBERT PYTHON SKIRT. Double vented pencil skirt with elongated back panel of matte black python and Italian lambskin. Back belt detail. Lined in royal purple 100% silk charmeuse. Cannot be shipped to California. $2,150. |
| “I just knew I wanted to do leather,” says Carla Dawn, “so it began as a tiny collection of sexy, clubwear-inspired pieces. By the time you'd found me, this had already grown tremendously.” Though she always had a great range, I’ve noticed that she has gone into far more complex designs. And the leather, though the skins could often be buttery, has certainly evolved. “I’m always looking for ways to remove the weight from leather and so many of the new treatments are right in line with that, which I love.” Behrle explains. “This is most often where I start, when developing a concept. “ |
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| Above, left: SPECTRE NEHRU JACKET. Privately commissioned men's tailored Nehru style jacket of lightweight French matte lambskin. Hidden closure, 3 exterior pockets and 3 interior pockets. CUSTOM PRICE. Above, right: LHARLOW MOTORCYCLE JACKET. 1930′s inspired. 3 ply silk crepe lining and interior pocket. $2,475 — $3,250. |
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| EMMA TOP. Exclusive hand appliqued leather on stretch mesh. Available in many colors and leathers. From $1650.00: (Priced according to leather.) |
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| GISELLE TOP. Same details as EMMA TOP. |
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| CLINT JEANS. Gentleman's pinstripe jeans, with individually stitched pinstripes and small western details. CUSTOM PRICE. (SIDE VIEW & DETAIL). |
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| "COGNOSCENTE" JACKET. Men's. Custom Price beginning at $3500. |
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| OXBLOOD BUFFALO HIDE MOTOCOAT. Men's. Gunmetal Riri zippers and flannel backed satin lining. CUSTOM PRICE. |
| Since 2005, Behrle’s been specializing in custom work. Being able to work so closely with her clientele has influenced her line, which she describes as “modern and elegant,with a bit of an edge... and includes a lot of the detailing that I love putting into my private work.” Behrle understands the way a garment needs to fit and how it wears over time.“Because of this, the way I design and pattern each piece is very, very different than a designer who works primarily in fabric and makes a few leather items. The patterns are cut to mold to, and work with the body.” Most of her work is SO custom, she does very limited editions of 5 to 6 pieces per line style. These are available on a first come basis. “Fine leather has to be cut one piece at a time, by hand, and each piece is constructed individually. It is the antithesis of mass production.” Behrle clarifies. |
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| Above, left: ANNA MAE DRESS. A modern cheongsam. Open back and an invisible zipper closure. Lined in 100% silk charmeuse. CUSTOM PRICE. Above, right: TAMARA DRAPED BACK DRESS. Slip-on dress with low-cut draped back and softly draped front neckline. Black leather 'harness' back detailing and holster button closure. Lined in 100% Silk charmuse. Available in a wide range of leathers and in various lengths. CUSTOM PRICE. |
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| Above, left: FRIDAY TOP. Gunmetal zipper closure. Lined in 100% silk charmeuse. $825 — $895. MARION LEGGINGS. Stretch leather with subtle contrast and contour seaming. This leather may be subject to availability. $1,750. Above, right: DIETRICH TRENCH COAT. Gunmetal hardware and Riri zippers. 2 exterior pockets and 1 interior pocket. Lined in your choice of 3 ply silk crepe or extra-warm flannel backed satin. $3,250. |
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| Above, left: BABE TUNIC. Lined in 100% silk crepe de chine with an exposed gunmetal Riri zipper closure at the back. Available in black. $1,450. (Shown with ROBINSON PANTS) Above, right: ROBINSON PANTS. Made-to-order in a range of pearlized colors or Italian lamb colors with black contrast at lower leg and back waistband. Gunmetal Riri zippers front and back of legs. Lined in 100% silk crepe de chine. Can also be custom fit for an additional charge: Custom fitting requires measurements and a fitting garment made to perfect your personal fit before any leather is cut. $2250 — $2350. |
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| Above, left: FAY STRETCH LEATHER TOP. Reversible stretch leather camisole. Adjustable black satin straps. Available in 4 colors. Iridescent color is a very Limited edition color. Base is semi-sheer so for more coverage order in your true size or next size up. $875 — $965. (Shown in Black Patent) WILLIE SKIRT. Invisible zippered closure at back. Lined in 100% silk crepe de chine. $1,150 — $1,245 (Shown in Mauve Pearl. Also available in Khaki Pearl). Above, right: FAY STRETCH LEATHER TOP (Stretch Leather Color SWATCHES). |
| She’s done everything from wedding parties (for both brides and grooms), to movies (“Men in Black II”), Rolex campaigns, dressing Angelina, Gwyneth and Julia Roberts for magazine features, clothing everyone from Bono, Alicia Keys and Sarah Michele Geller, to the wrestlers of the WWF! But, the most challenging order she ever filled was for all-in-one boot pants. “They really required a whole different sort of engineering.” She recalls. “You see photos of old ones from time to time and don't realize they were never meant to be sat down in! I worked with an amazing local shoemaker on the project, which made it a fun collaboration.” I wonder if animal rights groups have had her in their crosshairs? “Not in a long time. Overall,people are very understanding.” She says. “Once in a while I'm asked to make up one of my styles in vinyl or pleather, but I don't like to work with these types of petroleum products. They have a wear-life of, maybe, a year, a year-and-a-half, and chemical half-life of something like 50,000 years. It doesn't make any sense to me.” |
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| Above, left: VALERIA PANTS. Made up of hand-cut and assembled leather "coins" stitched together to form an openwork leather "coinmail." "Fabric is deceptively delicate looking, but is very hard to rip or damage." Lined in silk chiffon. Starts at $5500. Custom made in any color and just about any leather. "We have used it to create one-of-a kind pieces, from a wedding dress to a custom-commissioned wall hanging." Above, right: GLYPH DRESS. Italian lambskin hand-appliquéd onto black silk chiffon. This version is unlined, but would be made with a separate nude slip as this dress cannot be made with attached lining. Custom-made starts at $2750. |
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| Above, left: LASER EMPIRE. "We are known for our innovative treatment and finishing of laser cut leather." Patterns and colors vary from season to season. Priced according to leather/pattern/project. Above, right: PRIVATELY COMMISSIONED WEDDING GOWN. Created for a Moroccan wedding on Alcatraz Island. Made of pearlized white lambskin leather "coinmail" created on the bias. Trimmed with tiny rosebuds (at neck and center back) and corded in the same leather. Accented with pink pearlized leather leaves. "The blush colored silk chiffon headpiece is edged with white pearl coins that are also used to create a silent film era diadem," Behrle explains. The gown is lined in blush colored silk chiffon. "Special commissions like this are priced according to the project." |
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| DETAIL OF STRETCH LEATHER PROCESS. Each strip is individually hand-appliquéd on stretch mesh: "This is not a mechanized process; it is closer to hand knitting. Our stretch leather breathes and returns. It is easy to take care of and comfortable." Says Behrle. |
| What does make sense to Behrle is to branch out, beyond custom. She has put together a team and is looking for a business partner to oversee sales, distribution, and marketing and to reactivate the overseas presence she once had. There are no plans YET for runway or trunk shows. The studio is open by appointment only. There are editorial size samples of the current line, as well as archival pieces that showcase the range of their work and the quality of the leathers. For more information, visit her website www.carladawnbehrlenyc.com. The contact information is all there. (So is a picture of the all-in-one boot pants!) |
Twitter: ShoppingDiary |
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