IT'S A WRAP!

by Anita Sarko


GABRIELLE (back view)
Traditional embroidery techniques using small Japanese beads and repeated designs for each shape. Takes 4 weeks of work. $4.500. "Ultraluxe version inspired by the floral texture."

The sign of a great marketer is to convince you that you need something you never thought you needed, and then make you wonder how you ever got along without it.  Fashion has always been an area where this particular magic has been practiced to great effect.  Isn’t it amazing how anyone got along without jeans costing hundreds of dollars or handbags, not only as big as The Ritz, but costing as much as a lengthy stay there? What about those high heels that are impossible to walk in? People BEG to be put on lists in order to be lucky enough to spend a fortune for the right to NOT be able to walk. (And that’s not including the cost of the medical services needed for the busted ankle or shattered knee after the inevitable wipeout…should you actually be foolish enough to take a step).

MZIA BEKURAIDZE, the force behind the ZIA COUTURE.
Of course, in order to make people want what is ultimately unnecessary, let alone willing to pay enormous amounts for such items, it helps if the piece is extraordinarily well made and the materials used are ULTRA-luxe. Add all these together and, instead of folly, one actually has (hopefully) assumed an investment, a work of art, a potential heirloom.

With that in mind, let me introduce you to MZIA BEKURAIDZE, the force behind the ZIA COUTURE label. The highly-educated (Harvard for business communication, finance and management and NYU for design), fine-featured beauty toiled for years managing flagship stores for Prada, Valentino and Donna Karan Collection. Working in the trenches, she became very aware of what the customers wanted. “I used to hear from ladies all the time saying, ‘I love this gown or dress and would not mind spending a high volume of money, but I just wish you had a shawl or wrap on this level to go with it.’ Mzia relates. “I realized that I was losing sales because of this missing link and I, as a manager, would have better success if I had something versatile that completed evening wear.”

The missing link, according to Mzia, was high-caliber beading. This was something all the other evening wrap options…traditionally made of fur, cashmere and organza… didn’t have.  She then decided that the beading should be on the finest lace in the world. Two years ago, she contacted French lace-maker Sophie Hallette, who makes lace for Valentino, Prada, Armani, Eli Saab, Bradley Mischka and Carolina Herrera Haute Couture. Hallette most recently designed and created the lace for Kate Middletonʼs Alexander McQueen wedding gown.

MADISON (front and back)
Metallic lace. Traditional embroidery. Takes 5 weeks of work. $3.000. "Strongly linked to evening wear. Versatile: Can be worn day to night. There are only 2 pieces available."

VALERIE (front and back)
Grey Sophie Hallette illusion lace. Gunmetal sequins. Embellished with hand-crocheted fringes. Takes 4 weeks of work. $3.500. "Versatile: Can be worn day to night."

The lace in Mzia’s shawls is custom-crocheted and the beads are Japanese, Chinese, Korean, along with Swarovski crystals and Akoya pearls. “I design a small part of each shawl and have tailors continue and finish what I have started. Each piece takes countless hours to produce.”  Mzia explains. “Honestly, if my pieces were at established designer stores, the prices would be doubled. Because we’ve just started, price points are understated. It's a great deal for a woman who appreciates handcraftsmanship and is open minded!”

Nearly every piece is one-of-a-kind and can be special-ordered, insofar as colors, length, width, and details, such as fringes or ruffles. Then, it takes 4 to 5 weeks to make each shawl. I wonder what is the oddest request she’s had?  “Having worked on lace only, I had a request from California to make a suede shawl in a cowboy style with long suede fringes.  I also added some laser-cut trimming at the end. She was in heaven! She said she was looking for it all her life!”  Well, we all do have that fantasy glitzed-out inner Dale Evans in us, don’t we?  Well, I certainly do.  So “Happy Trails” to that!

MERCEDES
Black Sophie Hallette Chantilly lace. Swarovski crystals and black Japanese crystals and beads. Hand-embroidered flowers and hand-crocheted fringe. Takes 4 weeks of work. $4.500. "Inspired by the floral texture."
GABRIELLE
Traditional embroidery techniques using small Japanese beads and repeated designs for each shape. Takes 4 weeks of work. $4.500. "Ultraluxe version inspired by the floral texture."

Speaking of which…

Even though they do not wrinkle, Mzia provides a travel bag with each shawl for protection. She is adamant that these should have a regular place in one’s suitcase:  “They are perfect for any season, country or culture.” Even though her customer base is mainly in New York City, London, Monaco, Moscow and the Middle East, obviously Saudi Arabia is a major market and destination for shawls because of the necessity for head coverings.

MADMOISELLE (front and back)
Custom-made lace. 187 handmade flowers. Embellished with 6.5 MM Akoya pearls. Finished on both sides. Takes 4 weeks of work. $2.500.00 "Bridal
Inspiration."
Above: GRACE
Ultraluxe embossed lace. 187 handcrafted silk chiffon flowers. 187 black onyx beads used on both sides. Takes 4 weeks of work. $2.500 . One-of-a-kind. "Inspired by the floral print."

Zia Couture’s target customers are ”… women who are accomplished and socialize a lot. They know fashion really well, know what couture means, and never question prices or usage.” That said, even the seasoned shopper would still want an explanation as to why these shawls cost what they do. “It is very rare to find such pieces, because designers do not bead accessories on this level.”  Mzia emphasizes. “They would rather make cocktail dresses instead.”

Despite the obvious uses for such luxurious items, Mzia is intrigued by more off-center possibilities:  “If they are really fabulous and daring, they can wear it with jeans and a tank top. As simple as that! This reminds me of Daphne Guinness: I can absolutely see her wearing one of my shawls with her black leather jacket!”

Presently, ZIA COUTURE shawls are available in NYC at Yuta Powell Salon (52 E 72nd St. at Madison Ave. (212.570.6889). If you have any questions, requests or special orders, please contact Mzia directly at 646.641.1504.

STEPHANIE
Black chiffon handmade flowers covered with sequins and beads. Lightweight. Takes 2 weeks of work. $1.800.
SOPHIE
Midnight lace with handcrafted embroidered camellias and plissé finishing. Takes 3 weeks of work. $1.800. "Ultra soft and one-of-a-kind."

 
Twitter: ShoppingDiary


Bookmark this page
E-mail to a Friend

Subscribe to New York Shopping Diary

Email address:
(optional) Your name: