Norman Ambrose Knows Beautiful
by Anita Sarko
 |
| NORMAN AMBROSE Silk tulle & crepe back satin evening gown, metal bullion appliqué; $7,990. |
| Though I had been musically supervising and attending fashion shows in both NYC and Paris for over a decade, it wasn't until I began writing a column for Paper magazine that I got to see the Ladies-Who-Lunch shows, such as Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass and Geoffrey Beene. Except for Mr. Beene, the early morning shows of the uptown biggies were not paid attention to at Paper, so I happily took the neglected seats. I'm glad I did: The extraordinary workmanship, luxe fabrics and lush detailing was the fashion I had been brought up to crave, the sort I expected to see on runways.
He moved to NYC and worked for others, but he wanted his own label. “The label was a goal of mine since starting to sketch clothes at the age of 12. My clothes stand out and fill a void in the luxury clothing market. I wanted to be involved with the entire process from construction to marketing. Working directly with clients is vital to my inspiration. This is not often available to a designer under another (designer).” His eponymous ready-to-wear label launched in 2007. Though quite vintage-y looking, Ambrose's confections somehow manage to avoid looking costume-y. He cites Faye Dunaway's 1970's/early '80's style and “...her strength of character, intellect, and bold femininity...” as his inspiration for daytime, whereas it's the 1920s, “...where comfort and over-the-top embellishment are focal points..." that influence the evening wear. Nevertheless, Ambrose was determined to make his interpretations work for the modern customer. “I extracted what I felt to be the strongest and most flattering attributes of silhouette and attitude from the decades and brought them into the here and now. It’s timeless, really, when a garment is cut and constructed beautifully with good proportions.” |
 |
| Alpaca double breasted overcoat, horn buttons, charmeuse binding; $3,110. Silk crepe de chine stand collar long sleeve blouse; $990. Python flat front boot cut trouser; $5,450. Wool felt fedora w/ grosgrain detail; $750. |
 |
| Angora plaid three pocket tailored blazer, single button front; $3,150. Angora plaid fly front trouser with front pockets; $1,525. |
 |
Bias hand beaded sequin cowl neck blouse; $2,690. Angora plaid fly front trouser with front pockets (Close-up); $1,525. |
 |
| Silk georgette printed “snow leopard” jabot front long sleeve chemise dress; $1,875. | |
Stretch suede trench coat with bound edge detail, stand collar; $3,990. Silk charmeuse long sleeve jabot front blouse; $1,525. Stretch suede legging, stretch georgette lining, side zipper closure; $1,290. 1 ½” gloss alligator belt, covered buckle; $1,600. |
| Offering both custom and ready-to-wear, Ambrose proudly offers clothing for any size. What a very revolutionary and democratic way of thinking! “I do not look at dressing certain sizes as being open minded, just fair,” Ambrose declares defiantly (God bless him). “Perhaps this is where my grounded nature (thank you mom & dad) and my talent work well together.” He admits there are “challenges” when restructuring sizes. “Through hard work, a good eye and patience (both mine and the clients'), the outcome is flawless. I have been so lucky to meet some of the most remarkable women in the world and count them as clients and friends. I couldn’t imagine losing out on a single friendship, or miss the satisfaction of making her feel beautiful only because of a measurement. It is my gain and others' loss.” It helps that, like Alexander McQueen and Azzedine Alaïa, Ambrose has some heavy-duty tailoring chops. “I was mentored by a former pattern cutter who had been under Balenciaga and trained by a Blass tailor.” He explains. “During my early career, I would spend weekends and evenings creating patterns and studying construction. It was a finishing school to my formal education. Today, I create many of the patterns for my new collections and custom orders, but an excellent team is essential. I could not do what I do alone as it is a collaborative effort.” |
 |
| Felted wool jersey gusset sleeve shift dress, stretch silk georgette lining; $1,725. | |
Italian cashmere cable knit short sleeve crew neck sweater; $795. Wool plaid pencil skirt with bound button front closure, insert charmeuse piping; $1,425. Soft suede belt with resin horn buckle; $590. |
 |
| Silk charmeuse long sleeve jabot front blouse; $1,525. Wool plaid pencil skirt, silk crepe de chine lining; $990. 3” gloss alligator belt, covered solid brass buckle; $2,800. |
|
Hand beaded tulle sleeveless evening blouse; $6,250. Novelty metallic wool pleat front pencil skirt; $1,100. Italian cashmere cable knit cardigan, plate gold buttons, hand set grosgrain placket; $1,595.00 1 ½” bronze metallic snake belt, polished brass buckle; $490. |
 |
| Double face wool crepe sleeveless shift dress; $1,650. | |
Novelty metallic wool tailored shift dress, silk charmeuse edge binding; $1,975. | |
Wool plaid long sleeve jabot front chemise dress, in-seam pockets; $1,990. |
| All about superb craftsmanship, it may surprise people that Ambrose finds such craftsmanship in NYC. “There are still amazing craftspeople in New York. Fine construction is so rare these days that younger people in the industry have not been exposed to it. It always surprises me just how badly some clothing is made and the prices being commanded. Ladies are noticing more and more.” Ambrose is especially proud that his garments feature hand-finishing: “Hand finishing allows control where a machine would just obliterate. It’s a delicate touch, a soft finish, a way of working the fabric to do what you intend it to.” The colors and materials used in this collection are stunning. “Color says so much about one’s tastes and sensibilities. The most important rule I have when it comes to developing my color palettte is to choose those that are flattering, yet unusual... uncommon, if you will. This is why the collection contains so many shades, and creates a look of ease when combined, so that nothing is too matched, yet still works flawlessly.” The fabrics he uses are usually cashmere, worsted wool, crepe, silk tulle, and double satin. “Fabric is key. My clients have spent a lifetime learning what it is that they want and desire.” |
 |
| Hand beaded matte paillette chiffon cocktail dress, bias silk duchess satin details; $4,250. | |
Hand beaded paillette & crystal encrusted long sleeve cocktail dress. Burn-out ostrich feather sleeve & hem appliqué; $6,370. |
 |
| Hand beaded black diamond & jet bead “crusade” cocktail dress, silk crepe de chine lining, tulle ruffle sleeves; $8,990. |
 |
| Hand beaded paillette silk chiffon tunic dress, 5” bias silk charmeuse sash; $4,150. | |
Hand beaded paillette long sleeve evening gown, burn out ostrich feather sleeve & hem appliqués; $9,490. |
| Being an unabashed perfectionist, Ambrose is known for his inability to stop making adjustments. During one of his Fashion Week presentations, he was visible making several last-minute tweaks on the stationary models. I compliment him on his restraint during his first runway show this past Fashion Week, because he never came bolting onto the catwalk with a pair of sheers. “Could you imagine? I probably would if something were out of place.” He laughs. “I have such a wonderful team that all was perfect before the models even got near the runway. However, I won’t deny that, if something was amiss, you just might see me dart across the runway.” I secretly hope that happens. After enough shows, no matter how breathtaking the fashion, anything is welcomed to break up the monotony of watching wispy Eastern Europeans stomp from one point to another. Go to, www.normanambrose.com for a list of retailers, dates of each season's events and to arrange showroom appointments. |
Twitter: ShoppingDiary |
Bookmark this page
E-mail to a Friend