Fashion Week: Beginning, Middle, End

by Jill Lynne



The metallic gray of the enormous post-moderne tents seemed to mirror the bleak gray skies of the seemingly interminable winter.

The most major compensation was that for the first season there was a real Coat Check, so one no longer had to squeeze into small seats padded with down coats and scarves.

However, there was still no Press Lounge, and the writers delivering immediately were penned up in a small sunken area, midst the tents, trying to focus on their laptops.

Obtaining invitations has become increasingly difficult as 21-year-olds handle guest lists best left to the savvy and experienced. “Whoever is in that in the front row?” has become the refrain of true veteran fashionista.

L. to r.: Patrick McDonald; Purple Fashionistas; Mimi Liebeskind, formerly of Ann Taylor.
Bill Cunningham adjusts his camera.

So while my friend Mimi Liebskind – credited with putting Ann Taylor on the map eons ago – and I were queuing up to Luca Luca, that question was given new insight.

Ahead of us was a tres chic looking woman, dressed conservatively, a la mode, in expensive all black – black satin blouse, ornate black cardigan, mid-calf length slim black skirt, a fabu large black bag, and many chic shopping bags blaring their Designer names. She sported a perfect Anna Wintour-like hair bob. Her dark brown hair, perfection, sculpted so at any angel or turn-of-the-head, her hair remained completely intact.

“Wig!” said I, in a hush.

L. to r.: Ugly Betty Star Mark Indelicato; Coralie Charriol and friends; Valesca Guerrand Hermes and friend.

As the line tediously inched forward, we found ourselves along side the mystery woman and her friend. She immediately inquired how we got our tickets and a bit aggressively inquired if we could get her some.

“And how did you come by yours?” I also queried.

“On Gilt.com!” she responded.

“We paid $500 for the two tickets!!!” she continued ...

So, in fact, who knows how that “Front Row” is truly seated, or the entire audience.

Luca Luca Collection.

Several years ago I heralded the attributes of the Fashion Presentation vs. an actual Runway show – convenience, getting up-close-‘n-personal with the actual garments, and a lack of the pomp’n ceremony of endless waiting at various intervals before a show actually begins.

At last the tents boast “The Box," a space dedicated to just such presentations. Adrianne Vittadini’s excelled, and Mara Hoffman at The Box was splendid.

The lovely and pregnant designer Mara Hoffman, amongst her designs.
Duckie Brown Collection.
Background panorama for Tadashi Shoji show.
The Tadashi Shoji Collection.

This season, I became a fan of Style Lounges. Not only do they allow you to view and actually interact with a significant variety of Fashion, Beauty and related products, but to play with and examine them, as well as ask questions of the hovering experts. These lounges are growing in popularity, sometimes as stand-alone facilities, and occasionally as backdrops for runway shows.

Perhaps Style 360 has been doing this the longest, with Fashion Icon’s Robert Verdi’s caringly catered “Lux Lab” coming in at a close second. This is especially important because beneath the tents there is no comfortable place to relax in-between shows or any appealing dining facility. Of course, there are the select few who are privy to the Private Mercedes-Benz VIP Lounge, or backstage retreats. If not, one is literally left out in the cold.

The MB VIP Lounge.
Fashionista Isabel Orlansky at the Tent.
The Robert Verdi "Luxe Laboratory" Lounge (Zang Toi show on screen).
Healthy foot engineered Okabashi flip-flops.
Delectables at the RV Luxe Lab Lounge including the new calorie-conscious Chocolate mousse-like "Temptations" by JELL-O.

Worthy of note, the Fashion Delivers Foundation Center, replete with complimentary spray-on tans, conveniently located across the street from the Tents, the accessible Empire Hotel’s Lia Sophia suite spotlighting that deco-like, industrial-influenced forward and fab jewelry. The SPANX Suite is always fun. One of the first Baby-Boomer oriented companies, their intelligent undergarments constantly surprise. This time with a men’s line, sporting stretchable Tees that assist in creating that abs look, and briefs with a magic “pocket” for male enhancement.

The Michael Reisen Menswear Atelier Suite not only introduced Moi to their impeccably tailored fine menswear but to “Les Parfums De Rosine." I am quite persnickety about perfumes. J’adore but rarely am I transported. Such was the case with these scents. The creator, Marie-Hélène Rogeon great-grandfather developed perfumes for Napoleon III. At her home in Picardy (an hour from Paris) she raises the roses, and creates the alchemy, that becomes the base for her beautiful product line.

Fine French perfumer Marie-Hélène Rogeon with her extraordinary line.
Clockwise from top left: Designer Prince Shail in another of his creative ensembles; SPANX premieres a new line of Men's Underwear highlighting form-controlling Tees & briefs with a special enhancing "Pocket"; Jill models special Deco-influenced Earrings from the Lia Sophia Industrielle Collection; 1700's Silver Teapot made by the Paul Revere on loan from the New Orleans-based Art and Antiques Gallery.

While there I was treated to the delectable pastries of Executive Chef Richard Brown of Etrusca, Hilton Hotel, New York.

And at the American debut of EMU, the popular Australian Boot company (giving competition to UGG) the company unveiled a sporty array of attractive, highly wearable, layered, cozy wear. I knew about EMU. Several years ago, my daughter CoriAnne (Creator of the popular blog-site “PsychBabble4U”) received a pair of pink EMU boots from her Australian buddy David. I did try to wangle them ...

Wonderful Petite-fours by celebrated Executive Chef Richard Brown, Etrusca Restaurant, Hilton Hotel, New York.
Carson Case takes a hit of Oxgen at the Emu Lifestyle Lounge.
EMO Australia premieres their new Collection as they enter the American Market.
New Designers Jesse Finklestein and Katie King reveal their new Limited Edition Collection at the Opening of the University Boutique.

At that style lounge I was introduced to the newly revised vintage Polaroid Sunglasses Collection. Imbued with the clarity of Polaroid Camera lenses, these provide maximum UV protection with such clarity you truly forget you are wearing them.

Did you know that this season, for the first time, almost all the Fashion runway shows were “Live-streamed." YES! You could watch them, as they happened, right in the comfort of your own home computer. Now everyone can be “Front Row” (in more ways than one – as in who are those people anyway?)

Fashionista Esther Nash models Polaroids; Vintage Polaroid Camera from the Collection of Lorie Meg Karlin; Nina Awad also wears the new Polaroid Sunglasses from their updated re-issue Vintage Collection.

Fall 2011 Show Moments-To-Remember:

First: that Genius/Artist/Designer Zang Toi revealing his BEST, most dramatic Collection ever – met with a standing ovation, thunderous applause and shouts of “Bravo”! Congrats Zang!

Next: “The-Coming-Of-Age” Collections of Custo Barcelona – who developed his boldly-patterned tees into delightful ensembles, Luca Luca showing their best, brilliantly crafted collection ever, and Pamela Roland who parted with her traditional ball gowns to present a new sophistication. A Special shout-out for The Blondes who dare to break with convention in their joyous gender-bending collection.

The Zang Toi Collection.
At ZT (l. to r.): Pamela Joyner, a Collector of Zang Toi, models her ZT ensemble; Geoffrey Bradfield; Judith Regan.
L. to r.: Fern Mallis; George Whipple having a hand massage in the VIP Mercedes-Benz Lounge.
At Pamela Roland (l. to r.): Stylist Rosemary Ponzo wearing Valentine's day Heart Hat she created for the holiday; Fashion maverick Robert Verdi and pal; Fashion legend Gloria Gelfand.
Emma Snowdon Jones and Jennifer Creel at Pamela Roland.
Pamela Roland Collection.
Designer Pamela Roland and family are applauded as they walk the runway.
L. to r.: LEGO Man; Dressing up for Betsey Johnson; Mini Betsey fan.
The Betsey Johnson Show begins.
Betsey Johnson closes out the show.
Joanne de Guardiola, Susan Gutfreund, Elizabeth Loomis, Julia Koch, and Jamee Gregory at the Dennis Basso show.
Clockwise from above: Amanda Lepore; Designer Larissa and performing artist Joey Arias; Lady Fag; Anita Sarko and Keenan Brill.
The "Colorful" gender-bending audience, some sporting designs by the Blondes.
Dancing Dragons begin The Blondes Runway Show.
The Blondes Collection.

Trends:

Well Hallelujah! The Waist has returned to its anatomically correct position. Not high and Empire, neither dropped, nor missing, but back to its rightful place and accentuated. With bejeweled cinching semi-corsets, Japanese-style wrapping, or thick defining belts – a sign of true femininity.

Capes and Caplets: floor-sweeping or tiny shoulder pieces – outerwear of just dressy décor.

Cocoon shapes: ever-so-popular – from coats and sweaters through dresses.

Kimono shapes for outer and inner wear.

Deep, saturated colors: Violets and Greens.

Movable parts on everything: strands of knitwear, floating pearls, irregularly cut fabric, bits of fluffy fur, wisps of translucence, gossamer feathers and lace, flowing, draping, flirting with your every move ...

Fewer Frocks!

Longer lengths: especially ankle-length or toe-touching.

Statement Jewelry: wear it big and bold! Large Cuffs, outstanding necklaces ... for all ages.

Death defying wedgies heels: 6” plus heels as in Sak’s Christian Louboutin’s new Collection (is this a regression to nouveau foot-binding?)

Matching tights and heels leading to a lengthened silhouette.

At long last: The oh-so-practical, ever-flattering, hoods on everything.

“Maximalist Dressing”:
In everything ... more is better ... layer it! Dare to combine in outrageous ways. Just add on something else.

Hats and hair that stand tall.

Fashion as Fun! Fashion as a means of making your very special unique personality known. A Passion-For-Fashion for All – as when Betsey Johnson paraded a show of individuals form young ‘uns to seniors, petite trough chunky – all happily dancing about wearing her colorful signature styles.

On a sadder note:

We will always mourn the passing of our dear friend and neighbor, the wonderful Designer, Charles Nolan, and send sympathies to his lovely family.

Text & Photographs © Jill Lynne
Twitter: ShoppingDiary


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