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VAST AND LOFTY FABRICS

by Anita Sarko


During my many years creating the music for fashion shows, the high point has been working directly with the designers. My initial question is always, “What was your inspiration for this collection?” followed by, “What materials have you used?”

One of my favorite memories is of working with Calvin Klein. I’ve always personally loved Calvin and admired his design sense. Therefore it was a very special moment when I got to share his passion for his profession in a very personal one-on-one way. He got so excited by my second question, I soon found myself with him on a floor in a giant walk-in closet, scooting about under hanging garments, touching each one with reverence. He was so obsessed with each fabric, his eyes sparkled and his voice was even more earnest and breathier than his regular mode of speaking.

It’s a real blast to press a button of the soul of a creator.
The “Pinewood” Birch Velvet Pant (Per Se Collection $310)

Fabric by Pontoglio, one of the largest and oldest velvet mills (estb. 1883) in all of Italy. 98% cotton, 2% elastane velvet with a cut and brushed pile for a rich plush texture. The waistband is lined in silk charmeuse, which creates a rich luster.
Black/White Herringbone Tweed The Oxford Power Suit (Per Se Collection. Jacket- $555/Skirt - $325)

A NYC Showroom exclusive. Fabric is a bi-stretch wool/viscose blend novelty tweed with a slight herringbone design. Produced by Florence-based Vitamina, known for their specialized stretch fabrics.
If there is any downside to shopping for clothing online, it’s the inability to touch. I’m a longtime Supershopper and, during the decision making process, the way something feels is definitely equal to what it looks like.

Yet, if someone were to quiz me about fabric makers I would not be able to name one. So, it was quite a learning experience to visit the offices of The Carlisle Collection and learn about the connection this fashion house has to various purveyors of world-class materials.

The offices of The Carlisle Collection are remarkable. Somehow you’re transported to a grand English (or probably Scottish) manor in the wilds of the NYC Fashion District. I’m shown around the “pile” by the affable Kris Carpenter. “We actually have a design team in-house.” Carpenter explains.
“Starrynight” Black Glimmer Pleated Dress (Per Se Collection $595)

A silk/ nylon piece-dyed fabric in which the silk yarn is woven with a special high gloss nylon film yarn. Small floats are created to enhance the luster and texture of the fabric’s surface. The entire garment is hand-pleated to create the amazing detailing
“Precise” Red Wool Crepe Skirt with Black Appliqué (Per Se Collection $395)

A red double-face wool crepe base with a slight crinkled appearance on both sides of the fabric. Fabric is from Italy’s Biella region. The appliqué is a lightweight poly/nylon techno fabric from Limonta (Estab. 1893) in Costamasnaga, in an area claiming one of Europe's longest surviving textile traditions. The combination black fabric is sent to the embroidery factory while a laser machine cuts the fabric into this special design. The fabrics are hand applied together. Each garment takes 15 hours to create.
We get fabric samples after the initial designs.” Then, The Connaught Group Founder/CEO/Chairman William Rondina and Executive Vice-President Eileen Balaban-Eisenberg weed through the designs. The design team sews and manufactures the garments in-house and show them to Rondina and Balaban-Eisenberg for approval. Then, the garment is sent to China, sent back to NYC and green-lighted.

The Carlisle Collection and its younger sibling Per Se are designed for wardrobe growth. “You can continue to combine purchases and match multiples because our dyes are consistent each season.” Carpenter explains. “A lot of what we do come with extras: Matching belts, scarves, detachable fur pieces, versatile necklines, reversible jackets and free alterations.” There are also wardrobe consultants available.
“Nero” Black Wool Skirt with Camel Ribbon (The Carlisle Collection $495)

Finest merino wool, in a plain weave style, produced at the Austria’s Loden Steiner mill (Estab. 1888) All finishing treatments are done mechanically, with no additional chemicals used. It is embroidered with dyed to match “Camel” ribbon. There are 3 different width ribbons, cut into 130 pieces, with almost 70 yards of ribbon on one skirt. It takes 24 hours to produce one skirt.
“Embellished” Graphite mélange embroidered skirt (The Carlisle Collection $495)

A felted mélange wool garment using a mélange yarn dyed before spinning and produced from color-printed slivers so that the color bands are short enough for each fiber to have multiple colors. The felt is produced by Leomaster in Prato, Italy, known for advanced ecological products and machines. This fabric is then factory-embroidered with silk habotai, black felted wool, and almost 2,000 two different colored hand-applied seed beads. The combination fabric is cut into 7 different sizes of circles and then appliquéd onto the base fabric. Another combination fabric is cut into circles before application. Punch holes are created by hand.. One skirt takes 40 hours to produce.
But, back to the fabrics. You will be astounded by the complexity, innovativeness and FEEL of everything. The leathers, from different Italian mills, such as Ratti, are so soft, fine and fluid that they fall like the finest cloth. Surprising sewn-on details and intricate weaves are always unique because they are hand-sewn. Man-made fabrics are incredibly light and often pop as if in 3-D. And, though you’re dealing with a lot of knitwear, don’t for a minute think frumpy, chunky or shapeless. All I could think of was “I want this ... and this ... and this ... and ....”

Check out www.carlislecollection.com for information on their showrooms and a look at the Fall 2010/Holiday 2010 collections for both Carlisle and Per Se.
“Ballad” Black Poodle Full-Length Vest (Per Se Collection $525)

100% Merino wool with hand-crocheted loops woven into it, creating the faux fur effect. It takes over 18 hours to create this sweater.
“Flare” Black Crinkle Techno Jacket (Per Se Collection $495)

Woven on an computer-driven air jet loom, which uses a jet of air to carry the yarn through the shed, weaving at speeds of six rows per second and faster. The goods are piece-dyed, then sanded, which gives the crinkle effect.
“Fever” Cinnabar Skirt with Patent Appliqué (The Carlisle Collection $495)

Base fabric is Loden Steiner plain weave structure merino wool. Finishing treatments are done mechanically, using no additional chemicals. It is naturally flame retardant, naturally breathable and heat isolating. The appliqué is a soft, flexible and durable polyurethane faux patent leather. The waistband is lined in silk charmeuse. A special embroidery technique is applied through both layers and hand trimmed. One skirt takes 30 hours to create.
"Lattice" Ivory Double Knit Dress with Black Wool Combo (The Carlisle Collection $595)

A wool double knit base, similar to jersey., produced by Italy’s Tessitura di Crevacuore. The appliqué is a wool/ nylon/ cashmere stretch blend from Italy’s MTR. Both are embroidered together. The top layer fabric is hand-trimmed away from the embroidery stitches to create the intended design. Each dress takes 28 hours to create.
“Intricate” Black/White Herringbone Tweed Skirt Suit (The Carlisle Collection $595)

A bi-stretch wool/viscose blend novelty tweed with a slight herringbone design produced from fabric by Vitamina. The flowers and embroidered panels are placed on top of the georgette fabric where they are embroidered together and trimmed by hand with a special blade. The jacket is then sent for its scalloped finish. It takes 24 hours to create each jacket and another 24 for each skirt.
Limelight Chartreuse Dress (The Carlisle Collection $525)

Also created by FPR, this fabric was specially designed for our line to work with the Sizzle jacket. Fabric is a satin weave which is distinguished by its lustrous, 'silky' appearance. To ensure the dress perfectly matched the “Sizzle” Jacket the mill used the same yarns to create both fabrics.
“Cremebrule” Pearlized Leather Jacket – (Per Se Collection $1,095)

A lambskin leather with a pearl-like luster finish. The leather is carefully tumbled in order to ensure softness and durability. It's from a tannery located in the Italy’s Avellino region, known worldwide for their fashionable, high quality product.
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